Pumpkin Pop-Over: Free pattern

It seems we've got pop-over fever. Big time.

And why wouldn't we? They work up quickly and easily, they're super customisable, and they're as cosy as they are snazzy. What's not to like?

(A lot, according to some social media comments, but we don't listen to the haters.)

With spooky season fast approaching, I couldn't help but feel that my pop-over needed a pinch of pumpkin to spice it up. Which is how the Pumpkin Pop-Over came to be.

Still made from a simple granny square or two, still with all the same options to make yours completely unique, but with the added bonus of a spooky pal to take with you on all your adventures.

Whether you're stalking the streets on All Hallows' Eve or having some family fun at the pumpkin patch, your pop-over will be the perfect companion.

Get your hook and yarn, it's time to get making! You can find an ad free PDF version of this pattern in my shop.

Most of this pattern is the same as my Granny Square Pop-Over pattern, if you already have that one, you only need the instructions for the pumpkin square, below.

Notes.

I used aran yarn for my granny pop-overs. They were super quick to make and they're nice and warm without being too bulky. Mine all used approx. 350m of yarn, but meterage will vary depending on your chosen yarn, hook and size. This is a great project for using up some of your scraps and half balls. Based on my aran sample, you will need approx. 45m of MC (your pumpkin colour) and 15m of CC1 (the eye and smile colour).

You will make your square(s) to your shoulder width (approx. 36 (37, 39, 42, 44, 45, 45, 47, 47) cm for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)). You can use a vest you already have for sizing reference, or simply hold your square up to your chest to see whether you have reached a suitable width. I'm normally a M, my bust is around 90cm, and I made mine 34cm wide.

You'll then add a few neckline rows, and either make a second identical back panel, or work a simple, short back panel, before adding edging, and the optional roll neck and side ties.

I carried CC1 throughout my square to prevent repeatedly fastening off. Don’t pull it too tight as it’ll make your square pucker.

Change yarns during the final yarn over of the stitch before the colour change.

Abbreviations:

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

blo: back loop only

ch: chain

dc: double crochet

Fsc: foundation single crochet

hdc: half double crochet

sc: single crochet

sk: skip

sp: space

ss: slip stitch

st(s): stitch(es)

[]: repeat instructions between [] as many times as stated

{}: repeat instructions between {} as many times as stated

(): instructions between () are all carried out in the same st or sp

Pattern.

Main Body.

Front.

In the photos, MC is white, CC1 is black and CC2 is purple.

Rnd 1 (RS): with MC, ch3, in third ch from hook [3dc, ch1] four times, ss to first st to join.

Rnd 2: With MC, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, (3dc, ch1, with CC1 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [with MC, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp] twice, with CC1 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, with MC ch1, join.

Rnd 3: With MC, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, with CC1 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [with MC 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp] twice, 3dc in next sp, with CC1 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, with MC ch1, join. 

Rnd 4: With MC, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [3dc in next sp] twice, (3dc, ch1, with CC1 3dc) in next ch1 sp, 3dc in next sp, with MC 3dc in next sp, with CC1 (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [3dc in next sp] twice, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, with MC 3dc in next sp, with CC1 3dc in next sp, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, with MC ch1, join.

Rnd 5: With MC, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [3dc in next sp] three times, (3dc, ch1, with CC1 3dc) in next ch1 sp, 3dc in next sp, with MC 3dc in next sp, with CC1 3dc in next sp, with MC (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [3dc in next sp] three times, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, with CC1 3dc in next sp, with MC 3dc in next sp, with CC1 3dc in next sp, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, with MC ch1, join.

Rnd 6: With MC, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [3dc in next sp] four times, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [3dc in next sp] twice, with CC1 3dc in next sp, with MC 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, [3dc in next sp] four times, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, 3dc in next sp, with CC1 3dc in next sp, with MC [3dc in next sp] twice, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, ch1, join. Fasten off CC1.

Rnd 7: With CC2, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, 3dc in next sp, {with MC [3dc in next sp] three times, with CC2 3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp, 3dc in next sp} three times, with MC [3dc in next sp] three times, with CC2 3dc in next sp, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, join. Fasten off MC.

Rnd 8: With CC2 throughout, ch2, 3dc in sp just made, {3dc in each sp to next ch1 sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in ch1 sp} three times, 3dc in each sp to final ch1 sp, (3dc, ch1) in same sp as first 3dc, join.

Repeat Rnd 8 until your square is your chosen width. Do not fasten off, work neckline. 

Neckline.

Decide how wide you would like your neck opening to be and place markers evenly from either edge. If you plan to add a roll neck, err on the side of too wide rather than too small, as your ribbing will end up fairly tight.

Row 1: ch2, 1dc in sp just made, 1dc in each st to marked st working your final dc in your marked st, turn.

Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.

Repeat row 2 until your neckline measures approx. 5cm deep. Fasten off.

With RS facing, join yarn in second marked st.

Row 1: ch2, 1dc in each st to ch1 sp, 1dc in ch1 sp, turn.

Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.

Repeat row 2 until you have the same number of rows as your first side. Fasten off.

Back.

Granny Square.

Work the same as your front square, but do not fasten off at the end of your first neckline.

Seaming row: ch1, with RS of both panels touching, seam your shoulders by working 1sc through each st on both edges to join. Fasten off.

Work neckline for second side as before, finishing with Seaming row. Fasten off.

With RS facing, join yarn in bottom right corner ch1 sp on your back panel.

Rnd 1: ch1, 3sc in same sp, 1sc in each st to next ch1 sp, 3sc in ch1 sp, 1sc in each st to neckline rows, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp at the front of your work, [1sc in each st to next ch1 sp, 3sc in ch1 sp] twice, 1sc in each st to neckline rows, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp at the back of your work, 1sc in each remaining st, ss to first st to join. Fasten off.

Back.

Short Panel.

Join yarn in the final st of either set of your neckline sts to continue working in turned st pattern. Count the number of open sts at the front of your neckline.

Row 1: ch2, 1dc in each neckline st, loosely ch the same number of chs as open sts at the front of your neckline, working into the other side of your neckline, 1dc in each st, turn.

Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.

Repeat row 2 until you reach your chosen length, ending on a WS row. Do not fasten off, work Final Rnd.

Final Rnd (RS): ch1, 3sc in first st, 1sc in each st along your bottom edge to final st, 3sc in final st, evenly sc along your Back Panel and Neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp on front panel, [1sc in each st to next ch2 sp, 3sc in ch sp] twice, 1sc in each st to next ch2 sp, 1sc in ch sp, evenly sc along your row ends as before, ss to first st to join. Fasten off.

Roll neck.

With RS facing join yarn in the first st at the back left of your neckline.

Rnd 1: ch1, 1sc in each st at the back of your neckline, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in each st at the front of your neckline, evenly sc over your remaining neckline row ends as before, ss to first st to join.

If you don’t fancy a roll next you can fasten off here for a plain neckline.

Row 2: ch21, starting in second ch from hook, 20sc, ss to next 2 sts from rnd 1, turn.

You can easily alter the length of your roll neck by working additional or fewer chs.

Row 3: sk 2 ss, 20 blo sc, turn.

Row 4: ch1, 20 blo sc, ss to next 2 sts from rnd 1, turn.

Note: For a looser roll neck, work 20 blo hdc in row 4 instead of sc, alternating rows of sc and hdc around.

Repeat rows 3 & 4 around your entire neckline. When you reach row 2, seam your ribbing by working 1sc through each st on both edges to join. Fasten off.

Waist Ties.

Optional.

Work a Fsc to your chosen length, I made mine 25 sts long. Fasten off and use your starting tail to sew your tie to your top in your chosen position. Make 4 in total.

Leaf.

Optional.

Leaving a long tail, chain 9, sk 1 ch, 1sc, 1hdc, 4dc, 1hdc, (4sc) in final ch, working along the other side of your ch, 1hdc, 4dc, 1hdc, ss to first st to join. Fasten off and use your starting tail to attach your leaf to your pumpkin.

And you're done! Do you feel spooky? You look terrifying, I must say.

Please tag me in your makes on social media as I love to see them, @manatee_squares, and use #PumpkinPopOver to see other makers' work.

You're welcome to sell your finished makes, but please do not recreate this pattern in any way.

©manatee_squares