I was walking the dogs recently and, as usual, my mind was wandering to various places. What to cook for dinner, whether I would see my mate Mr Heron, and what to make next.
I had seen an advert for a dog walking coat which features backpack straps inside the coat, so if the great British weather suddenly changes and you're too hot, you can wear it like a backpack. That blew my mind! And it got me to wondering what I could crochet in a similar vein.
I always start my dog walks bundled up against the cold, and end them with a sweaty back. So I thought about a wearable scarf to keep the breeze away from my chest and neck, but without the bulk and extra warmth of a jumper. Enter, the Pop-Over.
Apparently these are called dickies in the US, but lots of people have told me differing things about the purpose of a dickie, plus pop-over just sounds a heck of a lot cuter, so that's what I'm going with.
My first venture into the pop-over world was the pink one shown below. It quickly (and unexpectedly) went viral on tiktok, which obviously meant a lot of people told me how stupid it was. Thanks, I didn't actually ask x. But that inspired me to add multiple back panel options as well as the hood to go with the roll neck. This is the Cosmic Girl Pop-Over, the pattern for which will be available in early October '24.
For something a bit simpler, enter the Granny Square Pop-Over.
Made from a classic granny square, in any weight yarn you like, this made-to-measure pop-over will keep you warm, but not too warm, through the winter months.
Whether you opt for a matching back panel for full coverage, or a short panel for a more lightweight wear, you can have your cosy crochet peeking out from beneath your favourite jacket in no time at all. Ready to make yours? Let's get started. You can find an ad free PDF version of this pattern in my shop.
Notes.
I used aran yarn for all 3 of my granny pop-overs. They were super quick to make and they're nice and warm without being too bulky. Mine all used approx. 350m of yarn, but meterage will vary depending on your chosen yarn, hook and size. This is a great project for using up some of your scraps and half balls.
You will make your square(s) to your shoulder width (approx. 36 (37, 39, 42, 44, 45, 45, 47, 47) cm for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)). You can use a vest you already have for sizing reference, or simply hold your square up to your chest to see whether you have reached a suitable width. I'm normally a M, my bust is around 90cm, and I made mine 34cm wide.
You'll then add a few neckline rows, and either make a second identical back panel, or work a simple, short back panel, before adding edging, and the optional roll neck and side ties.
If changing colours between rounds like my multi-coloured sample, fasten off at the end of each round and join new yarn in the final ch1 sp of the round.
Abbreviations:
This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
blo: back loop only
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
Fsc: foundation single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sp: space
ss: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
[]: repeat instructions between [] as many times as stated
(): instructions between () are all carried out in the same st or sp
Pattern.
Main Body.
Front.
Rnd 1 (RS): ch3, in third ch from hook [3dc, ch1] four times, ss to first st to join.
Rnd 2: ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp] three times, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, ch1, join.
Rnd 3: ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [3dc in next sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp] three times, 3dc in next sp, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, ch1, join.
Rnd 4: ch2, 3dc in sp just made, [3dc in each sp to next ch1 sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in next ch1 sp] three times, 3dc in each sp to next ch1 sp, 3dc in same ch1 sp as first 3dc, ch1, join.
Repeat rnd 4 until your square is your chosen width. Do not fasten off, work neckline.
Neckline.
Decide how wide you would like your neck opening to be and place markers evenly from either edge. If you plan to add a roll neck, err on the side of too wide rather than too small, as your ribbing will end up fairly tight.
Row 1: ch2, 1dc in sp just made, 1dc in each st to marked st working your final dc in your marked st, turn.
Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.
Repeat row 2 until your neckline measures approx. 5cm deep. Fasten off.
With RS facing, join yarn in second marked st.
Row 1: ch2, 1dc in each st to ch1 sp, 1dc in ch1 sp, turn.
Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.
Repeat row 2 until you have the same number of rows as your first side. Fasten off.
Back.
Granny Square.
Work the same as your front square, but do not fasten off at the end of your first neckline.
Seaming row: ch1, with RS of both panels touching, seam your shoulders by working 1sc through each st on both edges to join. Fasten off.
Work neckline for second side as before, finishing with Seaming row. Fasten off.
With RS facing, join yarn in bottom right corner ch1 sp on your back panel.
Rnd 1: ch1, 3sc in same sp, 1sc in each st to next ch1 sp, 3sc in ch1 sp, 1sc in each st to neckline rows, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp at the front of your work, [1sc in each st to next ch1 sp, 3sc in ch1 sp] twice, 1sc in each st to neckline rows, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp at the back of your work, 1sc in each remaining st, ss to first st to join. Fasten off.
Back.
Short Panel.
Join yarn in the final st of either set of your neckline sts to continue working in turned st pattern. Count the number of open sts at the front of your neckline.
Row 1: ch2, 1dc in each neckline st, loosely ch the same number of chs as open sts at the front of your neckline, working into the other side of your neckline, 1dc in each st, turn.
Row 2: ch2, dc across, turn.
Repeat row 2 until you reach your chosen length, ending on a WS row. Do not fasten off, work Final Rnd.
Final Rnd (RS): ch1, 3sc in first st, 1sc in each st along your bottom edge to final st, 3sc in final st, evenly sc along your Back Panel and Neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in first ch sp on front panel, [1sc in each st to next ch2 sp, 3sc in ch sp] twice, 1sc in each st to next ch2 sp, 1sc in ch sp, evenly sc along your row ends as before, ss to first st to join. Fasten off.
Roll neck.
With RS facing join yarn in the first st at the back left of your neckline.
Rnd 1: ch1, 1sc in each st at the back of your neckline, evenly sc over your neckline row ends working 2sc to every row end, 1sc in each st at the front of your neckline, evenly sc over your remaining neckline row ends as before, ss to first st to join.
If you don’t fancy a roll next you can fasten off here for a plain neckline.
Row 2: ch21, starting in second ch from hook, 20sc, ss to next 2 sts from rnd 1, turn.
You can easily alter the length of your roll neck by working additional or fewer chs.
Row 3: sk 2 ss, 20 blo sc, turn.
Row 4: ch1, 20 blo sc, ss to next 2 sts from rnd 1, turn.
Note: For a looser roll neck, work 20 blo hdc in row 4 instead of sc, alternating rows of sc and hdc around.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 around your entire neckline. When you reach row 2, seam your ribbing by working 1sc through each st on both edges to join. Fasten off.
Waist Ties.
Optional.
Work a Fsc to your chosen length, I made mine 25 sts long. Fasten off and use your starting tail to sew your tie to your top in your chosen position. Make 4 in total.
And you're done! Are you snug? I bet you are.
Please tag me in your makes on social media as I love to see them, @manatee_squares, and use #GrannySquarePopOver to see other makers' work.
You're welcome to sell your finished makes, but please do not recreate this pattern in any way.
©manatee_squares